Collection Process

Research for this collection began in two places: Deconstructivist Architecture, the 1988 MoMA exhibition catalog by Philip Johnson and Mark Wigley, and Surrealism and Fashion, a 1990 monograph by Richard Martin.

Two processes were developed to reflect the books and combined with each other to produce the bulk of the collection. The study series derives from architectural studies of the work of Frank Gehry — in particular the Walt Disney Concert Hall and his own residence — as well as the early emotive architectural drawings of Zaha Hadid, most notably The Peak. Pattern pieces reflecting the elements of these buildings were draped to produce abstract forms that eventually were rendered down into concrete final garments. The linework series used surrealist city plans inspired by dreams to produce two-dimensional randomized sketches, and seeing what garments emerged from the automatic line drawings.

The collection is rendered in a range of non-stretch wovens, including organically dyed nylons and iridescent cottons. Jackets and shirts can be rearranged and configured using the buttons and protruding panels, allowing the wearer to transform their silhouette day to day.